If you shop for handmade leather goods, you will see the words "vegetable-tanned" or "veg-tan" again and again. It is one of the oldest ways of making leather, and it is what we use for most of our pieces. Here is what it means.
What tanning is
Tanning is the process that turns a raw hide into leather, so it stays strong and flexible instead of breaking down. There are two main methods used today.
Vegetable tanning
Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned with tannins, natural compounds that come from tree bark, leaves and other plant material. It is a slow process that can take weeks. The result is a firm leather with a natural, earthy smell.
Chrome tanning
Most leather made today is chrome-tanned, using chromium salts. It is much faster, and it produces a softer, more flexible leather that comes in very even colours and handles water well. It is common in jackets, upholstery and soft bags.
Why makers love veg-tan
- It holds its shape. That makes it ideal for small structured goods such as key fobs, card holders and AirTag cases.
- It can be stamped and tooled. Initials and patterns press cleanly into the surface and stay there.
- The edges can be burnished. Rubbing the cut edge makes it smooth and glossy, which is why well-made veg-tan goods have such clean edges.
- It develops a patina. This is the big one.
What a patina is
Vegetable-tanned leather changes as you use it. Sunlight, the oils from your hands and everyday handling slowly darken it and give it a soft sheen. A pale tan piece can turn a deep honey brown over months and years. No two pieces age the same way, so yours becomes your own.
Is there a downside?
Veg-tan leather is less water resistant than chrome-tanned leather, and it can mark more easily when it is new. Most people find that the marks blend into the patina with time. A little care goes a long way.
How we use it
We cut, stitch and finish our veg-tan pieces by hand. Some are veg-tan all the way through. Others, like our cow print Italian leather AirTag holder, pair a printed leather outside with a veg-tan lining inside for structure.